The Autumn/Winter 2025 fashion season saw an influx of talent, with designers making their highly anticipated debuts across Milan, Paris, London, and New York Fashion Weeks. Among them, Francesco Murano, along with Veronica Leoni, Daniel Fletcher, and Sarah Burton, made waves with their inaugural collections, bringing new energy and perspectives to the global fashion stage.
Veronica Leoni at Calvin Klein: A New Minimalist Vision
At New York Fashion Week, Veronica Leoni unveiled her first collection as creative director of Calvin Klein, marking the brand’s return to the runway after a six-year hiatus. Leoni, known for her refined aesthetic, embraced Calvin Klein’s minimalist DNA while injecting fresh, contemporary silhouettes that redefined American luxury.
Her collection balanced classic tailoring with effortless sensuality, incorporating structured outerwear, sleek eveningwear, and a neutral-toned palette that paid homage to the brand’s heritage.
Sarah Burton at Givenchy: A Legacy Reimagined
After leaving Alexander McQueen, Sarah Burton took on the role of creative director at Givenchy, presenting her first collection at Paris Fashion Week. Drawing inspiration from Hubert de Givenchy’s original designs, Burton reinterpreted the house’s signature elegance with modern tailoring, sculptural gowns, and intricate embellishments.
Her collection emphasized timeless femininity and sophistication, featuring structured suits, dramatic eveningwear, and reworked vintage prints that honored the brand’s heritage while looking toward the future.
Francesco Murano: Sculptural Mastery Meets Timeless Elegance
LVMH Prize semifinalist Francesco Murano made a powerful debut at Milan Fashion Week AW25 with his collection “Aequus Libra.” Known for his architectural approach to fashion, Murano’s designs blended structured silhouettes with fluid drapery, creating a perfect balance of movement and form.
His collection was a deep dive into quiet luxury, featuring monochromatic palettes, precise tailoring, and an emphasis on craftsmanship. Murano’s ability to sculpt fabric into wearable art has positioned him as one of the most exciting emerging designers, carrying forward the legacy of Italian elegance with a modern twist.
Daniel Fletcher at Mithridate: Rock and Romance
In London, Daniel Fletcher debuted his first collection for Mithridate, drawing inspiration from Mick Jagger and the British rock scene. The collection seamlessly blended rebellious edge with high fashion, featuring tailored velvet suits, ruffled shirts, and embroidered outerwear that echoed the flamboyance of rock ‘n’ roll icons.
Fletcher’s vision for Mithridate elevated the brand to new heights, proving his ability to merge heritage craftsmanship with contemporary cool.
A Season of Bold Beginnings
The AW25 season proved to be a defining moment for these designers, each leaving a unique imprint on the fashion industry. Whether through Murano’s sculptural elegance, Leoni’s refined minimalism, Fletcher’s rock-inspired tailoring, or Burton’s reinterpretation of classic glamour, these debuts signaled the dawn of a new era in fashion.
Their fresh perspectives and commitment to craftsmanship have set the stage for the future of luxury fashion—one that embraces heritage, innovation, and individuality.
Julia Boganyuk’s choise from MFW25
Read here: Milan Fashion Week AW25: Favorite Trends and Ideas
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